Traditional Jewelry of India

Following Untracht as he discusses all the permutations and features of Indian jewelry is much like browsing through a National Geographic magazine or two. The pictures and captions catch the eye, but it is the text--nonscholarly, spritely prose--that truly educates and informs. And the author, through years of residency, research, and lectures, prepares all for a thorough backgrounding in a much neglected subject. He begins well before the establishment of goldsmithery, examining the body decorations of Bengal Bay islanders as well as the religious ornaments of various regional peoples. Then, in much-illustrated detail, come chapters on the tradition of entire-body decoration, actual examples and explanations of meanings, the use of gold and silver and gemstones, three specific centuries of artistry (the Mughal dynasty), and the interchange between and cross-cultural influences of European and Indian jewelry design. A wondrous collection of data and visuals documenting 5,000 continuous years of jewelry design. (Barbara Jacobs)

Far more than merely a display of wealth and taste, jewelry is an integral element in the lives of the people of India. Drawing on more than 35 years of collecting and research, Untracht surveys the major Indian jewelry forms and techniques, exploring Indian jewelry as both an ongoing aesthetic spanning 5,000 years and a highly significant form of cultural expression. 870 illustrations, 220 in color.