Name: Deluxe
ISBN: 9781594201295

作者: Dana Thomas
出版社: Penguin Press HC, The
副标题: How Luxury Lost Its Luster
出版年: 2007-8-16
页数: 384
定价: USD 27.95
装帧: Hardcover
ISBN: 9781594201295

豆瓣评分

8.3

131人评价

5星

33.6%
4星

53.4%
3星

11.5%
2星

1.5%
1星

0.0%

评价:

内容简介 · · · · · ·

Once luxury was available only to the rarefied and aristocratic world of old money and royalty. It offered a history of tradition, superior quality, and a pampered buying experience. Today, however, luxury is simply a product packaged and sold by multibillion-dollar global corporations focused on growth, visibility, brand awareness, advertising, and, above all, profits. Award-w...

(展开全部)

作者简介 · · · · · ·

Dana Thomas is the author of the New York Times bestseller, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, published by The Penguin Press in 2007. She began her career writing for the Style section of The Washington Post in Washington, D.C. and from 1995 to 2008, she served as the European cultural and fashion correspondent for Newsweek in Paris. Most recently, she was the European editor...

(展开全部)

原文摘录 · · · · · · ( 全部 )

真正懂的奢华的人痛恨身份地位，你也不会因为穿上昂贵的衣服就看上去很富有。当你看一个人时，你看到它散发出来的精神、魅力和创造力了吗？只看到一颗大钻石，那代表什么？不过代表心满意足罢了。我觉得这太可怕了——对品味的判断完全基于金钱的多少。拥有奢侈品让你看起来更好，这全是幻觉。真的！那不能给你带来什么，那太陈腐了。 (查看原文)

风子无照解梦 11赞 2012-08-08 13:04:02

—— 引自第83页
奢侈就是穿着昂贵裙服却如同身着T恤衫一样安逸自在。如果你没有这份自在，那你就不是一个习惯奢侈的人。你只是一个买得起东西的有钱人。 (查看原文)

荒荒酱 7赞 2012-09-14 13:43:53

—— 引自第365页

> 全部原文摘录

豆瓣成员常用的标签(共54个) · · · · · ·

Fashion 商业社会学消费文化文化社會學

喜欢读"Deluxe"的人也喜欢 · · · · · ·

: The Cult of the Luxury Brand

: Luxury Brand Management

: Weapons of the Weak

: The Luxury Strategy

: Reassembling the Social

: The Beautiful Fall

: 巴黎时尚界的日本浪潮

: Studies in Iconology

: Addiction by Design

: Yohji Yamamoto

我来说两句

短评 · · · · · · ( 全部 37 条 )

Deluxe的话题 · · · · · · ( 全部条 )

什么是话题

无论是一部作品、一个人，还是一件事，都往往可以衍生出许多不同的话题。将这些话题细分出来，分别进行讨论，会有更多收获。

我要写书评

Deluxe的书评 · · · · · · ( 全部 66 条 )

热门 / 最新 / 好友 /只看本版本的评论

Besson 2012-05-17 03:16:52 重庆大学出版社2011版

奢侈品死了！

当尼采喊出“上帝死了”之后，又有人喊出“艺术死了”，“崇高死了”。轰轰烈烈的消费社会到来，让一切经典的都死了。是这样吗？看了《奢侈的》（黛娜.托马斯著，李孟苏、崔薇译，重庆大学出版社出版）之后，我知道，真正的奢侈品，确实死了。书中告诉我们，当下我们消费的奢侈... (展开)

100

6 5回应

wonka 2012-12-08 19:00:44 重庆大学出版社2011版

奢侈品业的十个秘密

1. 奢侈品的出身——大品牌源于小店铺当今奢侈品行业60%的市场份额被35个主要品牌所掌控，像路易威登、古驰、普拉达、乔治阿玛尼、爱马仕以及香奈儿这些品牌年营业额都在10亿美元以上。其实多数我们津津乐道的奢侈品牌都是18世纪、19世纪卑微的匠人们为王室制造精美手工... (展开)

4 2回应

上一当 2013-02-22 13:52:58 重庆大学出版社2011版

菜鸟，装逼犯必备--两位中文翻译都是文盲

此书作为一本故事书架构很精巧，总是在承上启下。作者写作风格严肃，大量的旁征博引也都标明了出处。作者只是把一个很多人都心知肚明的事拿到了表面：大多数奢侈品消费者都知道他们买的包是人造革做的，也知道是机器缝的，更能从各品牌门店媚俗奢侈的装修里知道这是暴利行业。... (展开)

6 19回应

Shady 2011-09-20 00:19:51

“Luxury is not how much you can buy…..Luxury is buying the Right Thing”

Deluxe- How Luxury Lost its Luster (what she wrote and what I thought) 作者Dana Thomas, 一名從上世紀80年代開始活躍的fashion writer。是的，writer，而不是現在人人可以挂個名字的editor。不過時光荏苒，現在這個行業再沒有多少人會寫作，也許因爲，更多的人選擇不去... (展开)

1 0回应

珍珠里的贝壳 2009-10-27 18:29:31 時報文化出版企業股份2008版

非买不可：奢侈品业的"梦想行销"

像一个好学生一样，Dana Thomas孜孜不倦地做着笔记，到世界各地旅行，采访各奢侈品业巨头，参观奢侈品牌的工厂，记下工厂环境，产品的制作工序，各巨头的穿着打扮、谈话风格和家族历史，她试图描绘出奢侈品行业每一次做出重要改变的原因以及奢侈品行销方式调整的脉络。她接触了... (展开)

3 14回应

iloveeuro 2015-01-26 01:23:47 重庆大学出版社2011版

奢侈品创业指南

一般来说，你可以在未来的100年里这样打造自己的奢侈品品牌。首先，你的血统很重要，最好非富即贵，但重点是自己一定是家道没落的普通人。有一个爱美的心，天子独特的审美能力，最重要的是有“手艺人的作品情怀”。年轻时给别人打工没关系，但尽量找些名人或大品牌学设计学手... (展开)

1回应

沁云 2011-01-23 22:53:40

Dana Thomas的Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster

上网的时候几乎在每个论坛都能看到关于“街拍”的帖子。这些街拍99%都是关于大牌明星（很多其实也并不大牌，而是所谓的时尚潮人）和模特是如何穿着或华贵耀眼或波西米亚的行头在街头出现的照片。这样的内容每每都是观者甚众，一有街拍帖子，必然会引起我国众上网女青年... (展开)

4 3回应

Zeppelin W 2012-05-30 11:32:17 重庆大学出版社2011版

迷信与挑剔

在奢侈品民主化的浪潮下，每个国家都有一大批奢侈品牌的忠实粉丝，但不同国家的粉丝对奢侈品的态度却有所不同。日本人对商品品质显示出无人企及的挑剔。“他们对细节的专注，对品质的要求，无可匹敌，毫不妥协。”香奈儿日本分公司董事长理查德•克拉斯（Richard Collasse... (展开)

1 0回应

指纹小姐 2011-12-23 15:56:12 重庆大学出版社2011版

想读，期待……

可可香奈儿说：包裹在奢华中的女人有种特别的光辉。这本书让我们看看光辉背后的黯淡……，我很期待，或许奢华真的开始廉价了。盲目的狂热的追逐大牌要追到什么时候，难道真的哪天我们装薯条的袋子也要印有LV、GUCCI、CHANNEL的LOGO，我们才肯罢休。晕，说我的评论太短了，那我... (展开)

0回应

太阳的蓝 2011-05-15 09:01:28

Something beneath the luxury luster -- after reading Dana Thomas's Deluxe

曾在公车靠站的时候，看到一个女孩子背着一个簇新的红色漆皮LV，也许是刚刚入手，看的出来女孩子很喜欢，很兴奋，又有些手足无措。看着她那副“含在嘴里怕化了”的神情，让我想到Karl Lagerfeld的一句话：Luxury is the ease of a T-shirt in a very expensive dress. I f you ... (展开)

0回应

> 更多书评 66篇

读书笔记 · · · · · · (共7篇)

我来写笔记

按有用程度
按页码先后
最新笔记

展开收起
第17页 Chapter One: An industry is born

异人一猫

"The way I define luxury isn't by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it," Jacobs says, sitting in his Paris office,sucking on his umpteenth cigarette of the day as his bull terrier Alfred gnaws on a soup bone. "That's an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people."   (3回应)
2015-01-22 09:15   1人喜欢

"The way I define luxury isn't by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it," Jacobs says, sitting in his Paris office,sucking on his umpteenth cigarette of the day as his bull terrier Alfred gnaws on a soup bone. "That's an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people."
引自 Chapter One: An industry is born

推荐

3回应   2015-01-22 09:15
展开收起
Deluxe

mai

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down to "democratize" fash...
2021-01-13 12:09

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest
引自第3页
Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five
引自第4页
The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down
引自第4页
to "democratize" fashion: they hyped their brands mercilessly; the tycoons made their products more available, economically and physically. They introduced fashionable lower-priced accessories that most anyone could afford
most luxury companies have raised their brands prices exponentially, and many justify the move by falsely claiming that their goods are made in Western Europe, where labor is expensive. To further Pump up their numbers. luxury companies have introduced cheaply made, lower-priced accessories--such as logo-covered T-shirts, nylon toiletry cases, and denim handbags- and expanded their range of perfume and cosmetics, all of which bring in substantial profits when sold in great volume
引自第10页
The Swiss bank UBS'S wealth-management division had an influx of $76 billion in new money in 2005, an increase of 57 per cent in one year. Netjets, the private iet-share company saw a business increase of 1,000 percent from 2001 to 2006. The private security arm Kroll reported that its business from clients with at least $500 million in assets increased by 67 percent in just two years.
引自第11页
"War destroys man, but luxury destroys mankind; at once corrupts the body and the mind."
-John Crowne, 17th century English playwright
Major groups:
-LVMH: Dior, Celine, LV, Givenchy, Chondon, Tiffany, Tag Heuer, Chaumet, Kenzo, Duty Free Shopper (DFS), Fendi
-Richemont (Suisse): Cartier (in 2005, accounted for 50% of sale, 80% of profit, 60% of which from watches), Chloe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC
-Gucci group: Gucci, YSL, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen
-Prada: Prada, Miu Miu
-Ferragamo group
-Bulgari group
-Valentino Fashion group
Independent brands:
-Giorgio Armani
-Versace
-Dolce & Gabbana
In the old day, when luxury brands were privately held companies, owners cared about making a profit but the primary obiective in house was to produce the finest products possible. Since the tycoons have taken over, however, that objective has been replaced by a phenomenon I call the cult of luxury. Today luxury brand items are collected like baseball cards, displayed like artwork, brandished like iconography. Arnault and his fellow luxury tycoons have shifted the focus from what the product is to what it represents.
引自第41页
perfume
Most luxury brands today do not own, create, manufacture, or distribute their perfumes. Luxury brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, and Marc Jacobs license their names to conglomerates such as Procter & Gamble-"soap companies, "sniffed Polge-or big cosmetic firms such as Coty, Estee Lauder, and Loreal. (In 2005 Coty bought Unilevers fragrance division, which included Calvin Klein, Vera Wang, and Chloe, for $800 million. )
引自第152页
Most perfumes are created by a handful of big laboratories: Givaudan Roure in Switzerland, International Flavors &Fragrances in New York: Symrise in Holzminden, Germany; Firmenich in Switzerland: Quest International in Kent, England; Haarmann Reimer in Germany; and Takasago in Japan.
引自第153页
The laboratory sells the iuice to the licensee at two and a half times the cost. The licensee retails it for two to four times its cost and earns about 30 to 40 percent in profits. The licensee then pays the luxury brand royalties for use of the name. The big money is made in volume, which is why perfumes are pushed on the mass-market level
引自第163页
handbags
They are easier to create and produce than perfumes, and the profit margin is astounding: for most luxury brands the profit is between ten and twelve times the cost to make the item. At Vuitton, it's as much as thirteen times.
引自第168页
The “It" bag phenomenon is young--less than twenty years old and has been wholly created by the marketing wizards at luxury brand companies.
引自第169页
Yes, luxury hand ags are made in China. Top brands. Brands that you carry. Brands that deny outright that their bags are made in China make their ags in China, ... Each brand made the manufacturer sign a confidentiality agreement stipulating that he could not reveal the fact that he produced their products in China. Furthermore the manufacturer doesnt let the competition know who else he is producing. When the representatives come to the factory, they are led directly to the section working on their goods, and they talk only to the team in charge of their goods.
引自第197页
also true for clothes and other items - large quantity made in China for the low labor cost
The really rich do not attend the couture shows either. " Most the Chanel clients are not here, "Karl Lagerfeld told me after the Chanel couture show in July 2006. "They have other things to do, you know. But the oceans are crossed by private jets for fittings,” "Who are they I asked “New fortunes. Huge fortunes. People who are richer than air. Peo ple we don't really know-we know if the money is clean-but people who don't want to be identified. It's not the red carpet. Whenever you lave the dress on the red carpet, those women, they cancel their order immediately. The women who buy couture don't want to be associated with actresses “Where do they live?” “China, there are more than a couple” A few days later. Chanel's head seamstress and one of its vendeuses were flown with the collection to China for the weekend on a private jet
引自第333页

推荐

回应 2021-01-13 12:09
展开收起
Bits

watermark (Elsewhere)

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely) “It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:) “luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.” “Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a c...
2020-07-29 18:42

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely)
“It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:)
“luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.”
“Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a clear evidence to support my thoughts on attitude towards luxury goods)
“I face reality as it is, and not like what I would like it to be.”
“luxury lies not in richess and ornateness, but in the absence if vulgarity.”
“Perfume will be olfactive: you will be able to smell a place. you will travel with perfume.”
“luxury is not how much you can buy. luxury is the knowledge of how to do it right.”

推荐

回应 2020-07-29 18:42
展开收起
无

freop

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book) Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist) Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer) Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly) Seven: nomadic textile industry Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop Nine...
2017-09-24 01:58

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH
Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book)
Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS
Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist)
Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer)
Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly)
Seven: nomadic textile industry
Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop
Nine: luxury counterfeit & child labor in Guangdong
Ten: expensive and inexpensive live very well together (Karl Lagerfeld H&M), luxury brand hotel

推荐

回应 2017-09-24 01:58

展开收起
第17页 Chapter One: An industry is born

异人一猫

"The way I define luxury isn't by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it," Jacobs says, sitting in his Paris office,sucking on his umpteenth cigarette of the day as his bull terrier Alfred gnaws on a soup bone. "That's an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people."   (3回应)
2015-01-22 09:15   1人喜欢

"The way I define luxury isn't by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it," Jacobs says, sitting in his Paris office,sucking on his umpteenth cigarette of the day as his bull terrier Alfred gnaws on a soup bone. "That's an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people."
引自 Chapter One: An industry is born

推荐

3回应   2015-01-22 09:15
展开收起
Deluxe

mai

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down to "democratize" fash...
2021-01-13 12:09

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest
引自第3页
Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five
引自第4页
The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down
引自第4页
to "democratize" fashion: they hyped their brands mercilessly; the tycoons made their products more available, economically and physically. They introduced fashionable lower-priced accessories that most anyone could afford
most luxury companies have raised their brands prices exponentially, and many justify the move by falsely claiming that their goods are made in Western Europe, where labor is expensive. To further Pump up their numbers. luxury companies have introduced cheaply made, lower-priced accessories--such as logo-covered T-shirts, nylon toiletry cases, and denim handbags- and expanded their range of perfume and cosmetics, all of which bring in substantial profits when sold in great volume
引自第10页
The Swiss bank UBS'S wealth-management division had an influx of $76 billion in new money in 2005, an increase of 57 per cent in one year. Netjets, the private iet-share company saw a business increase of 1,000 percent from 2001 to 2006. The private security arm Kroll reported that its business from clients with at least $500 million in assets increased by 67 percent in just two years.
引自第11页
"War destroys man, but luxury destroys mankind; at once corrupts the body and the mind."
-John Crowne, 17th century English playwright
Major groups:
-LVMH: Dior, Celine, LV, Givenchy, Chondon, Tiffany, Tag Heuer, Chaumet, Kenzo, Duty Free Shopper (DFS), Fendi
-Richemont (Suisse): Cartier (in 2005, accounted for 50% of sale, 80% of profit, 60% of which from watches), Chloe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC
-Gucci group: Gucci, YSL, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen
-Prada: Prada, Miu Miu
-Ferragamo group
-Bulgari group
-Valentino Fashion group
Independent brands:
-Giorgio Armani
-Versace
-Dolce & Gabbana
In the old day, when luxury brands were privately held companies, owners cared about making a profit but the primary obiective in house was to produce the finest products possible. Since the tycoons have taken over, however, that objective has been replaced by a phenomenon I call the cult of luxury. Today luxury brand items are collected like baseball cards, displayed like artwork, brandished like iconography. Arnault and his fellow luxury tycoons have shifted the focus from what the product is to what it represents.
引自第41页
perfume
Most luxury brands today do not own, create, manufacture, or distribute their perfumes. Luxury brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, and Marc Jacobs license their names to conglomerates such as Procter & Gamble-"soap companies, "sniffed Polge-or big cosmetic firms such as Coty, Estee Lauder, and Loreal. (In 2005 Coty bought Unilevers fragrance division, which included Calvin Klein, Vera Wang, and Chloe, for $800 million. )
引自第152页
Most perfumes are created by a handful of big laboratories: Givaudan Roure in Switzerland, International Flavors &Fragrances in New York: Symrise in Holzminden, Germany; Firmenich in Switzerland: Quest International in Kent, England; Haarmann Reimer in Germany; and Takasago in Japan.
引自第153页
The laboratory sells the iuice to the licensee at two and a half times the cost. The licensee retails it for two to four times its cost and earns about 30 to 40 percent in profits. The licensee then pays the luxury brand royalties for use of the name. The big money is made in volume, which is why perfumes are pushed on the mass-market level
引自第163页
handbags
They are easier to create and produce than perfumes, and the profit margin is astounding: for most luxury brands the profit is between ten and twelve times the cost to make the item. At Vuitton, it's as much as thirteen times.
引自第168页
The “It" bag phenomenon is young--less than twenty years old and has been wholly created by the marketing wizards at luxury brand companies.
引自第169页
Yes, luxury hand ags are made in China. Top brands. Brands that you carry. Brands that deny outright that their bags are made in China make their ags in China, ... Each brand made the manufacturer sign a confidentiality agreement stipulating that he could not reveal the fact that he produced their products in China. Furthermore the manufacturer doesnt let the competition know who else he is producing. When the representatives come to the factory, they are led directly to the section working on their goods, and they talk only to the team in charge of their goods.
引自第197页
also true for clothes and other items - large quantity made in China for the low labor cost
The really rich do not attend the couture shows either. " Most the Chanel clients are not here, "Karl Lagerfeld told me after the Chanel couture show in July 2006. "They have other things to do, you know. But the oceans are crossed by private jets for fittings,” "Who are they I asked “New fortunes. Huge fortunes. People who are richer than air. Peo ple we don't really know-we know if the money is clean-but people who don't want to be identified. It's not the red carpet. Whenever you lave the dress on the red carpet, those women, they cancel their order immediately. The women who buy couture don't want to be associated with actresses “Where do they live?” “China, there are more than a couple” A few days later. Chanel's head seamstress and one of its vendeuses were flown with the collection to China for the weekend on a private jet
引自第333页

推荐

回应 2021-01-13 12:09
展开收起
Bits

watermark (Elsewhere)

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely) “It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:) “luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.” “Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a c...
2020-07-29 18:42

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely)
“It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:)
“luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.”
“Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a clear evidence to support my thoughts on attitude towards luxury goods)
“I face reality as it is, and not like what I would like it to be.”
“luxury lies not in richess and ornateness, but in the absence if vulgarity.”
“Perfume will be olfactive: you will be able to smell a place. you will travel with perfume.”
“luxury is not how much you can buy. luxury is the knowledge of how to do it right.”

推荐

回应 2020-07-29 18:42
展开收起
无

freop

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book) Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist) Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer) Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly) Seven: nomadic textile industry Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop Nine...
2017-09-24 01:58

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH
Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book)
Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS
Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist)
Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer)
Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly)
Seven: nomadic textile industry
Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop
Nine: luxury counterfeit & child labor in Guangdong
Ten: expensive and inexpensive live very well together (Karl Lagerfeld H&M), luxury brand hotel

推荐

回应 2017-09-24 01:58

展开收起
Deluxe

mai

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down to "democratize" fash...
2021-01-13 12:09

Thirty-five major brands control 60 percent of the business, and dozens of smaller companies account for the rest
引自第3页
Their primary customers are upper-income women between thirty and fifty years old. In Asia, the customer base veers younger, starting at twenty-five
引自第4页
The average markup on a handbag is ten to twelve times production cost. And Vuitton prices are never marked down
引自第4页
to "democratize" fashion: they hyped their brands mercilessly; the tycoons made their products more available, economically and physically. They introduced fashionable lower-priced accessories that most anyone could afford
most luxury companies have raised their brands prices exponentially, and many justify the move by falsely claiming that their goods are made in Western Europe, where labor is expensive. To further Pump up their numbers. luxury companies have introduced cheaply made, lower-priced accessories--such as logo-covered T-shirts, nylon toiletry cases, and denim handbags- and expanded their range of perfume and cosmetics, all of which bring in substantial profits when sold in great volume
引自第10页
The Swiss bank UBS'S wealth-management division had an influx of $76 billion in new money in 2005, an increase of 57 per cent in one year. Netjets, the private iet-share company saw a business increase of 1,000 percent from 2001 to 2006. The private security arm Kroll reported that its business from clients with at least $500 million in assets increased by 67 percent in just two years.
引自第11页
"War destroys man, but luxury destroys mankind; at once corrupts the body and the mind."
-John Crowne, 17th century English playwright
Major groups:
-LVMH: Dior, Celine, LV, Givenchy, Chondon, Tiffany, Tag Heuer, Chaumet, Kenzo, Duty Free Shopper (DFS), Fendi
-Richemont (Suisse): Cartier (in 2005, accounted for 50% of sale, 80% of profit, 60% of which from watches), Chloe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC
-Gucci group: Gucci, YSL, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen
-Prada: Prada, Miu Miu
-Ferragamo group
-Bulgari group
-Valentino Fashion group
Independent brands:
-Giorgio Armani
-Versace
-Dolce & Gabbana
In the old day, when luxury brands were privately held companies, owners cared about making a profit but the primary obiective in house was to produce the finest products possible. Since the tycoons have taken over, however, that objective has been replaced by a phenomenon I call the cult of luxury. Today luxury brand items are collected like baseball cards, displayed like artwork, brandished like iconography. Arnault and his fellow luxury tycoons have shifted the focus from what the product is to what it represents.
引自第41页
perfume
Most luxury brands today do not own, create, manufacture, or distribute their perfumes. Luxury brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, and Marc Jacobs license their names to conglomerates such as Procter & Gamble-"soap companies, "sniffed Polge-or big cosmetic firms such as Coty, Estee Lauder, and Loreal. (In 2005 Coty bought Unilevers fragrance division, which included Calvin Klein, Vera Wang, and Chloe, for $800 million. )
引自第152页
Most perfumes are created by a handful of big laboratories: Givaudan Roure in Switzerland, International Flavors &Fragrances in New York: Symrise in Holzminden, Germany; Firmenich in Switzerland: Quest International in Kent, England; Haarmann Reimer in Germany; and Takasago in Japan.
引自第153页
The laboratory sells the iuice to the licensee at two and a half times the cost. The licensee retails it for two to four times its cost and earns about 30 to 40 percent in profits. The licensee then pays the luxury brand royalties for use of the name. The big money is made in volume, which is why perfumes are pushed on the mass-market level
引自第163页
handbags
They are easier to create and produce than perfumes, and the profit margin is astounding: for most luxury brands the profit is between ten and twelve times the cost to make the item. At Vuitton, it's as much as thirteen times.
引自第168页
The “It" bag phenomenon is young--less than twenty years old and has been wholly created by the marketing wizards at luxury brand companies.
引自第169页
Yes, luxury hand ags are made in China. Top brands. Brands that you carry. Brands that deny outright that their bags are made in China make their ags in China, ... Each brand made the manufacturer sign a confidentiality agreement stipulating that he could not reveal the fact that he produced their products in China. Furthermore the manufacturer doesnt let the competition know who else he is producing. When the representatives come to the factory, they are led directly to the section working on their goods, and they talk only to the team in charge of their goods.
引自第197页
also true for clothes and other items - large quantity made in China for the low labor cost
The really rich do not attend the couture shows either. " Most the Chanel clients are not here, "Karl Lagerfeld told me after the Chanel couture show in July 2006. "They have other things to do, you know. But the oceans are crossed by private jets for fittings,” "Who are they I asked “New fortunes. Huge fortunes. People who are richer than air. Peo ple we don't really know-we know if the money is clean-but people who don't want to be identified. It's not the red carpet. Whenever you lave the dress on the red carpet, those women, they cancel their order immediately. The women who buy couture don't want to be associated with actresses “Where do they live?” “China, there are more than a couple” A few days later. Chanel's head seamstress and one of its vendeuses were flown with the collection to China for the weekend on a private jet
引自第333页

推荐

回应 2021-01-13 12:09
展开收起
Bits

watermark (Elsewhere)

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely) “It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:) “luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.” “Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a c...
2020-07-29 18:42

“Luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” (precisely)
“It is as important to be well dressed as it is to be educated, have good manners, eat well.” (never too late to learn:)
“luxury was no longer simply about creating finest things money could buy. it was about making money, a lot of money.”
“Shift the focus from what the product is to what it represent.” (a clear evidence to support my thoughts on attitude towards luxury goods)
“I face reality as it is, and not like what I would like it to be.”
“luxury lies not in richess and ornateness, but in the absence if vulgarity.”
“Perfume will be olfactive: you will be able to smell a place. you will travel with perfume.”
“luxury is not how much you can buy. luxury is the knowledge of how to do it right.”

推荐

回应 2020-07-29 18:42
展开收起
无

freop

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book) Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist) Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer) Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly) Seven: nomadic textile industry Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop Nine...
2017-09-24 01:58

One: vertical integration Racamier LVMH
Two: Bernard Arnault's business strategy (Gucci), Miuccia Prada (best part of the book)
Three: Japanese and Hawaii duty free DFS
Four: celebrity phenomenon (Giogio Armani, bribery of stylist)
Five: perfume (feud between Chanel and Wertheimer)
Six: handbags (Hermes Kelly)
Seven: nomadic textile industry
Eight: outlet, net-a-porter, Chavs & hip-hop
Nine: luxury counterfeit & child labor in Guangdong
Ten: expensive and inexpensive live very well together (Karl Lagerfeld H&M), luxury brand hotel

推荐

回应 2017-09-24 01:58
展开收起
GOING GLOBAL

甜染 (等待是沉默的深呼吸)

Parasite Singles: unmarried university-educated women, ages twenty-five to thirty-four, who worked in good-paying jobs—as secretaries, teachers, executives—and lived with their parents. ... With few living expenses, Parasite Singles use their ample disposable income to shop. Their favorite items: luxury brand leather goods, preferably covered with logos. Indeed, 23 percent of all luxury brand...
2017-01-28 16:27

Parasite Singles: unmarried university-educated women, ages twenty-five to thirty-four, who worked in good-paying jobs—as secretaries, teachers, executives—and lived with their parents. ... With few living expenses, Parasite Singles use their ample disposable income to shop. Their favorite items: luxury brand leather goods, preferably covered with logos. Indeed, 23 percent of all luxury brand sales in Japan today are leather goods such as wallets and handbags.
引自 GOING GLOBAL
https://dou.bz/0C7A6p Alistar 2017-01-28 16:38:07 但是我认为WSJ这篇文章中有视角问题。为什么未婚会作为一个重要特点拎出来说，对于日本女性，不要说00年，至今婚姻对于事业影响仍然很大，而我认为文章的问题在于，为何断定不婚是主要出于经济考量，就像文中女孩说的：不知道，没碰上对的人。这样一篇文章在平权声势浩大的今天几乎不可想象。 Alistar 2017-01-28 16:41:05 Yamada says the main reason women are delaying marriage is that life at home is too comfortable. #???

推荐

回应 2017-01-28 16:27