Name: Barbarian Days
ISBN: 9781594203473

作者: William Finnegan
出版社: Penguin Press
副标题: A Surfing Life
出版年: 2015-7-21
页数: 464
定价: USD 27.95
装帧: Hardcover
ISBN: 9781594203473

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内容简介 · · · · · ·

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

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A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

作者简介 · · · · · ·

威廉·芬尼根（William Finnegan），幼年在加州度过，10岁开始学习冲浪，中学时因父亲的电视制作人工作而移居夏威夷，在那里结交到志同道合的朋友，一起磨练冲浪技巧。冲浪成为他一生的痴迷。

1987年起他成为《纽约客》撰稿人，主要从事南非的种族冲突、中南美洲和非洲的政治问题及美国青年的贫困和毒品问题等方面的报道。多次获新闻奖，John Bartlow Martin公共利益杂志新闻奖，出版多部著作。

本书是他的自传，获2016年普利策传记奖。

原文摘录 · · · · · · ( 全部 )

It was 1968. Across the west， with its restless youth,a great many things - sex, society, authority - were being rethought or sharply questioned, and the little world of surfing rose, in its way , to the insurrection - ary momen. The short board revolution was inseparable from the zeitgeist: hippie cultrue, acid rock, hallucinogens, neo - Eastern mysticism, the psychedelic aesthetic. The peace movement, just entering its boom period nationally,........... Many surfers dodged the draft... (查看原文)

inside out 2018-11-14 08:58:56

—— 引自第87页
........what interests me, though, is what was in my head. I know I saw nothing wrong with insurance fraud, just as I saw nothing wrong with drug smuggling, or with anything else I considered a victimless crime. Draft dodging,still well in the future for me but already up ending the lives of the older brothers of friends, I vehemently endorsed. The Vietnam war was wrong, rotten to the core. But the military, the government, the police, big business were all congealing in my view into a single oppressive mass - the System, the Man. (查看原文)

inside out 2018-11-14 08:58:56

—— 引自第87页